India’s beaches – Agonda and Om beach

Franzi and I spoke a lot about where to start our honeymoon. We could go for a major city like Delhi, so we could visit the world famous Taj Mahal, or the north of India with it’s mountains. We expected though that the last week before leaving would be quite stressful, and decided that we would need some sun, ocean and relaxing to get in the honeymoon spirit.

Helpfully we could get direct flights to Goa, which is famous for its beaches, so that suited us fine! Our first three days would be spent at the beaches of Agonda.

And what a place it was. Our resort was straight on the beach, with large comfy beds in spacious straw huts. There was a surprisingly large library of books, sunbeds under a straw parasol, and lots of good food.

Surprisingly enough the other guests were old, grey and British. We had expected a little more diversity, which luckily happened the next day when they all packed their bags and made room for Germans, French, Swiss and Indian guests, both single travellers and families. After the English had left the guy below (Babu) was still around in the resort. The staff explained that he was in fact a local resident and just wandered around on his own. Like all dogs in the area he was a good boy, although from the looks of it he feels he has a tough life.

Most people will know that cows are holy in Indian culture. In effect it means that they can go wherever or do whatever they feel like (more on this later). One day, late in the afternoon, a herd of cows burst onto the beach in what can be best described as the gallop of a clumsy uncoordinated pony. After the dramatic entree the cows proceeded their search for food at next door’s resort, leading to the tourists currently present fleeing the beach in a minor panic. After a short while the herd made it’s way to the sea though, and over the course of afternoon could be seen further and further North of us.

Om Beach

Other than the beach of Agonda we also visited Om Beach, about 6km from Gokarna, which itself is approximately 3 hours South of Agonda.

The waves here were less impressive, but the beaches much quieter. Om Beach has a fair number of socalled cafés that serve drinks and food and offer cheap, basic accommodation. We stayed at Samyan overlooking the bay (the cafés are to the right)

The cafe was not even half full, mainly consisting of westerners spending a week or two there to smoke weed. Dreadlocks and long beards were pretty much mandatory to fit in. Our dreads aren’t in any decent shape yet, but my beard (or maybe Beard by now) is getting there.

We spent a few days exploring the area, including next door’s Half Moon beach, which required a short walk through the jungle with great views over the ocean. After all the hard trekking we needed a break and found an even more remote cafe. Mind you this was now c. 45 minutes walk from the nearest road.

After a few days the road called again, and after loading our backpacks into a tuktuk we left for Kerala, with a little detour to Mysore, Nagarhole national park and Bengalore.

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